August Blocks

August Block 1

This is a hard one. It involves learning to piece curved seams, and also making your own template. Some of you will want to skip it and go on to the other two blocks, which will be easier.

For August, I am offering one block that is totally new… the Snake's Trail. In a different arrangement, it can become Snow Windows. I will be making the Snake's Trail, but I will show you the Snowy Windows as well. This is a curved seam block, but don't panic. Simply take my hand and trust me… I will lead you safely through the woods and will not let the werewolves get you.

You are going to have to make a template of some kind. You can copy the template pattern I offer here, reproduce and cut it out on card stock and then draw it on your fabric and cut by hand, or you can make a plastic template… up to you. Here is the template:

Make two template pieces as above. I have tried to reproduce this at actual size. For me, if I click on the template picture and tell it to save to desktop, then open it and tell it to print, it comes out perfect. However, I know that when you print it out or copy it, it may vary, depending on your equipment. Play with it on a scanner or copier until you have the identified dimension exactly 4 1/2". That measurement is the same vertically and horizontally. Cut your templates out of card stock or pattern plastic. Drill the dots as 1/8" holes, or punch them. If you want to re-use the templates, and I think you will, make them sturdier, out of hard plastic, by cutting them on a band saw and drilling the holes.

 

Once you have your template made, you need to cut out the pieces. The piece with the 4 1/2" base is piece "A", the other piece is piece "B". You will need to cut 12 of each. Actually, you will only need nine finished units for our block, but you are going to want to have some extras for learning. Here is the assembly process:

Here you see my templates and the pieces of fabric. I made my templates out of 3/16" acrylic plastic. I prefer 1/8" but I had this on hand. Note the 1/8" holes drilled in the templates. If you use standard thinner pattern plastic, you can punch these holes with a hole punch, but you will need them. They mark your seam for pinning and sewing.

Your next step is to make small slits in the curved edge of piece A, as shown here. Make a slit at each of the dots on the curve, but only on the dots on the curve. Don't make a slit by the dots that are on the flat sides. Make the cut about 2/3 of the way in toward the dots.

Lay a B piece down good side up. Lay an A piece on it, matching the flat sides but with the end of the curve on the A piece aligned with the end of the curve on the B piece. The dots on the pieces will match up. Pin with a thin pin, point out to the edge as shown. Next, put a pin in the dot on the flat side, with the point inward. This pin is simply to hold the edges aligned. You will not sew to it.

This picture shows the flat side alignment pins mentioned just previously, with both flat sides pinned. Bunch up the A piece and fit the opposite side to its matching edge, pinning again as shown here.

Next, match up the dots in the middle of the two pieces and pin there.

Next, match up the remaining dots and pin at those points, then pin in between the dots, ending up with this. Notice how the slits you made in Piece A have spread, permitting a smooth curve.

Here is the pinned unit, ready to sew. Use a shy, repeat: shy, 1/4" seam. Sew slowly and keep the arc of the curve true.

The seam is finished and the pins removed.

Iron the seam toward the A piece. It will lie flatter because of the slits you made.

Here are my 9 blocks laid out in the pattern known as Snake's Trail.

Here are the same blocks laid out in the pattern known as Snowy Windows.

Here is my finished Snake's Trail block.

Quilting detail. Notice how quilting inside the block seams makes them more pronounced and gives the block depth.

 

 

This is a tricky little devil, but I am confident you can manage it if you are slow and careful. I got a few puckers in my first few, which is why I suggested you prepare to make 12 and select the 9 you think are best. Keeping the seam shy is really, really important. You can't make this block oversize and cut down. The arc has to be exactly a perfect quarter-circle. If you make some undersized, the arc will be less than that, and if you make it too big it will be more than that. This can create some odd effects in the finished pattern.

Final Instruction

 

Now… I want you to take a solemn Treadleonian Oath, violation of which will cause your sewing machines to snarl forever, that you will not use the link I am providing below until you have successfully made this block. Also, you must not reveal anything about the Final Instruction.

Once you have made the block and are reasonably satisfied with it, use this link:

Link to the Real Truth

August Block 2

August Block  #2 is lots easier. This one is called "Flaming Arrows" and is a 16 patch made up of all half-triangle squares.

Flaming Arrows

 

Construction

 

The basic unit is 3" finished squares. You will need eight half-triangle squares of the medium color and background and eight half-triangle squares of dark color and background. Cut eight 4 1/2" squares of background and four each 4 1/2" squares of medium and dark color. Use these to make your 16 half-triangle squares and trim them down to the required 3 1/2". Join in rows as usual and border/sash to your standard.  

 

August Block 3

This one is just a tiny bit harder, as it is a 36 patch with a solid center. However, you have been here before, so it shouldn't be too bad. It is an especially pretty block, called "Four Crowns".

Four Crowns

 

 This is a 36 patch, the basic unit is a 2" finished square. You will need a medium color and a dark color, plus background. Cut eight 2 1/2" squares of background, and four 2 1/2" squares of dark. Next you will need sixteen 2 1/2" half-triangle squares of medium and background. Cut eight 3 1/2" squares of background and eight 3 1/2" squares of medium color. Use these to make your sixteen half-square triangles and trim them down to the required 2 1/2" size. Assemble the top two rows and join them, then the bottom two rows and join then. The center two rows must be assembled as a unit. Join blocks one and two in the third row, then blocks one and two in the fourth row. Next join these units to make a four-patch. Repeat this step with the four blocks on the right… blocks five and six in each of the middle two rows. Finally, join the two four-patches to the 4 1/2" center block, then join that double-row unit to the top two rows and the bottom two rows to complete the block. A warning… there are some points in this block where four seam units will meet. The seam will be very thick there. Use a shy seam or you will find yourself short. I came up a good 1/8" short on two sides and had to "force iron" the block to size. Of course, the border/sashing will make up the difference, but you don't want it to be extreme.

 

OK, that's August. I am now far enough ahead to not have to worry while I am traveling in June and July, and will hopefully be able to devote some time to planning and instruction writing on the bordering process.

 

Dick