February Block of the Month

 

For February, I am introducing two blocks that use half-triangles, as January's did, but combined with some plain squares of either color or background. Make the half-triangles the same as before, cutting 4 1/2" squares, sewing diagonal seams, then splitting them with your roller cutter and trimming the resulting half-triangles down to 3 1/2". Cut the required background or color squares at 3 1/2" to start with. Arrange the units to make the pattern, then sew together, sewing the four rows, ironing, then sewing the rows together. By now, you should have an idea of how to control your seams (shy or generous) to end up with good 12 1/2" blocks. Remember that it is far better to use shy seams and come out just a smidge oversize than the reverse. You can trim down, but short of ripping and re-sewing, you can't trim up. (Of course, if you are going to use the settings, then you can compensate there.)

Here are our two regular February blocks:

 

Loch Ness

I came across this one in an issue of Quilter magazine. It was listed as traditional, but I have not found it in any of my references. For this block you need 12 half-triangles, 2 color squares and 2 background squares.

Road to California

This is a traditional block that is listed in most references. You need four half-triangles, four color squares and 8 background squares. This is one of a large family of blocks that are designated "Road to…". All feature some kind of central "path", set off by side "paths". These blocks generally benefit from multiple colors.

 

 I wanted to get ahead for February (so I could get into the shop and start getting out wand orders), so I still haven't done the instructions for the settings or quilting. I will get to it.

 

Test Pilot Blocks

Theresa's Loch Ness

Theresa's Road to California

Mary's Loch Ness

Betty's Road to California

Cindy's Loch Ness

Cindy's Road to California

 

Those of you who have been following the posts on the list know that there has been a demand for more blocks, in order to make large quilts with the same size blocks as we started with. For this reason, I am going to three blocks per month. Now, I do want to emphasize that those who want to can still make a nice quilt with only 12 blocks. The basic block and alternate each month will tend to be easier blocks, so that gives 24 to work with. A 4 x 5 layout of 20 blocks would make a good sized quilt, especially with borders, so you could even leave out a few that you didn't care for as much.

Now, beginning this month, I will also offer a third block, which will deliberately be a bit more difficult. For this one you might have to stretch your skills just a little bit. Because January didn't get a third block, I will post two for February, allowing you to catch up.

Here at the two "third" blocks:

Crooked Creek

Sister's Choice

 

As most of you know, I made my original Cooked Creek block incorrectly. The one above is correct. I am leaving Annie's block up (to the right) because it makes such a good demo of the effects of different colors. My whole quilt will be rather subtle, as I am using the 1930's fabrics. Annie's block shows just what a dynamic block this can be.

The picture I was originally working from had only one color in it and I think I was mentally still on Road to California, so I made the diagonal elements as if they stood alone, instead of being part of the "creeks". Note that you could make the diagonal elements (the triangles) of yet a different color, creating yet another effect, but still having the same block pattern.

 

The difficulty with these two blocks is that they are based on units of five, rather than 3 or 4. With 3 or 4 units across and down, figuring dimensions is easy, as these numbers divide evenly into 12", our basic block size. Five doesn't. The closest inch equivalent to what you get when you divide 12" by 5 is 2 3/8". Add your 1/4" seam allowances to that and you get 2 7/8" for your working unit size. When you sew, let your seams be just the tiniest bit shy, and you should come out OK. If you are off a bit, don't worry about it. Just make your borders a bit extra wide and then trim down to the 15 1/2" size, or whatever you are working to.

Incidentally, here is a good idea. Since I could not buy a 15 1/2" square ruler, I went to the plastic company (a good hardware place would also do) and bought a 2' square of clear acrylic plastic. I cut that to 15 1/2" square on my table saw. Then I figured that the actual border I wanted on my basic blocks worked out to 1 3/4", so I scribed a fine line 1 3/4" in from each edge. When I finish a block and border it, having cut the borders wide, I set the intersections of the scribed lines on the corners and just trim off the excess border. Voila! Perfect 15 1/2" squares, all the same.

OK, to make Crooked Creek, cut 7 background squares 2 7/8" square. Cut 8 squares of the stronger color, and 6 squares of the other color. Make four half-triangle squares, cutting them oversize in our usual manner, then trimming them down to 2 7/8". When you have your squares, assemble them in the pattern and sew the rows, then sew the rows together. Remember to allow your seams to be just a tiny bit shy, especially when joining the rows. Seams tend to get fatter as the thicknesses of fabric increase. When you are done, iron your block out and measure it. If you are lucky, or very good, it will come out to almost exactly 12 1/2". Add the border in the usual manner.

To make Sisters Choice, you can proceed in identically the same manner, cutting full squares and making half-triangle squares as required. Note that on the green cross arms, you have an option. You can make these by joining two green squares, or you can cut the rectangle as one piece. If you cut as one piece, as I did, it will be 5 1/4" x 2 7/8". This number may seem odd, but remember, you are eliminating a seam in the middle, so you are eliminating 1/2". The advantage of doing this piece this way is that you avoid a distracting seam in a major emphasis piece.

Good luck, and I hope you are having fun!