For July, I am reversing my usual practice and putting the hard block first. It's a beauty, but it is another of those 64 patches, like Sisters Choice. By the time you finish this one, you'll need the breather that the second and third blocks will supply.

I got this block in my mind and couldn't get it out. I thought maybe I would save it till the end and put it in December, but I just had to make it, so I did. The block I saw was called "Snow Crystals" and was a 16" block in a 64 patch pattern… kind of like Sisters Choice. I really liked it and made all the pieces and laid them out. Once I did that, I saw that I wanted to make a change in it. Snow Crystals had a solid star in the center. I thought some contrast was called for. I tried a contrast square in the center but it still didn't seem right, so I tried a square in a square center, on point, and I thought that looked really great. I cheated and did it with four small squares rather than a true square in a square sub-block. (I really must learn the formula and learn to do those.) Anyway, I liked the result very much.

As most of you are probably aware, if you change the color scheme within a block pattern, it is still the original pattern by name. However, if you change the arrangement of the pieces or differ from the original design, you no longer have the same block. Hence, when I made my change to the center of this design, I felt entitled to rename it, and I decided to call it "The Star of Treadleonia". I am pleased enough with it that I think I will make a full-size quilt with the pattern, basing it on 7" blocks and using it kind of like a traditional Lone Star pattern.

Anyway, as I said, it is a 64 patch, which means you really, really have to watch your seams if you want to come out right. The arrangement itself isn't difficult, although you end up with some very thick points where things cross. My White VS II was acting up and puckered up the block somewhat, so I switched to the 1911 FR, and that just ate it up… smoothest machine I think I have ever sewn with.

Here it is:

I suspect this would be quite effective even all one color, but I like the contrast of the two. I quilted it to emphasize the design. Study the inner star. You will see that there are eight points and that you can run a straight line across the points that establish the star, going out to the outside edge of the outer star. I quilted all 8 of these straight lines, carrying them not all the way to the edges of the block, but only to the outside edge of the outer star. This provided definition to the inner star and stabilized the whole quilt piece (top, bat and backing…. Of course, I am using fusible batting… no pinning or basting). After that, I carefully quilted the outer edge of the outside star all the way around, then the inner edge. Naturally, I had already quilted the sashing/border seams.) The picture below shows the quilting from the back.

The basic unit of the finished block is 1 1/2" squares. You will be cutting some 2" squares of solid or background fabric, and making a lot of 2" half-triangle squares.

Preparation of Squares:

Cut sixteen 2" squares of background. (solid white in my block)

Make twelve medium/background 2" half-triangle squares. (green and white in my block)

Make twenty dark/background 2" half-triangle squares. (blue and white in my block)

Make sixteen medium and dark 2" half-triangle squares. (green and blue in my block)

That makes your 64 squares.

Note: If you are skilled about making square-in-a-square patches, you can make the center four blocks (the small blue square "on-point) as a square-in-a-square patch). I am not, so I cheated and simply made four medium/dark half-triangle squares and used those. (Someday I must learn the formula and practice of making those square-in-a-square patches… they are common to a lot of blocks.)

Arrange your 64 squares as per the example. Carefully sew the first two blocks of the upper row together and measure them. They should measure 3 1/2". If they don't, adjust the rest of your seams accordingly, so that you end up with a row 12 1/2" long, or just a smidge more. When the row is done, iron all the seams in one direction.

Do the second row, and iron the seams in the opposite direction.

I found it mentally helpful at this point to sew Rows 1 and 2 together, carefully butting and pinning seams. Use a shy quarter inch seam in row assembly. Assembling rows with lots of seams somehow seems to produce a wider seam than when sewing just two layers of fabric. Your finished pair of rows should measure 12 1/2" long (or a smidge more) by 3 1/2" wide.

Continue the process, sewing Rows 3 and 4 together, then joining them to the Row 1/2 unit. The new unit should be 12 1/2" x 6 1/2".

Repeat the whole process, assembling Row 5, then Row 6, then joining them. Then Row 7 and Row 8, and joining them. Then join these two units to create the mirror image of the top half of the block, and finally joining the bottom and top halves. With luck and skill, you should have a Trail to Treadleonia block that is 12 1/2" square. If very slightly large, trim it. If very slightly small, iron the h--- out of it in the shy direction. If too small to do that and end up with a usable block… well, gosh, I'm sorry.

Border/sash to your usual standard and quilt per the directions above.

The basic unit of this block is a 2" square. Construction consists of building five 4 patch blocks with the contrasting square in one corner, then assembling them as shown. Be advised, you might think that you could save a step by making the top two squares of each four-patch as one unit. Don't. The stitching that defines each square, especially when emphasized by in the ditch quilting, helps to set off the contrast block and defines the "Puss in a Corner" effect.

Cut four 4 1/2" squares of background.

Cut five 2 1/2" squares of dark.

Cut fifteen 2 1/2" squares of medium.

Assemble the 5 four-patch units, ending up with 4 1/2" squares. Arrange the four patch and background units to make the block pattern and assemble in rows.

Border/sash to your practice.

I rather like the simple effect of one color on this pattern, but two can certainly be used.

The basic unit here is the 3" square, but the center is obviously varied from this.

Cut four 3 1/2" squares of background for the corners.

Cut one 4 1/2" square for the center.

Make eight 3 1/2" half-triangle squares.

Cut two rectangles of background 1 1/2" x 4 1/2".

Cut two rectangles of background 1 1/2" x 6 1/2".

Arrange the pieces to conform to the pattern as shown.

Assemble the center first, sewing the two shorter rectangles to the sides of the center square, then the two longer rectangles to the top and bottom, making the center unit.

Next, join the two left hand squares and then the two right hand squares. Finish this step by joining these two units to the sides of the center unit, making the double-wide center row of the block.

Join the top row of squares and join them to the top of the center row, then repeat with the bottom row of squares and you have your block.

Border/sash to your standard.