A pre-quilted block is simply a block that is put together as if it were a mini-quilt. It has been "layered", or structured to have a back, usually muslin, a center section of batting, and a pieced top. These three layers are pinned or basted to stabilize them, and are then quilted in whatever pattern is desired. Most large pieced quilts are treated as a complete unit, with a whole quilt top produced, then layered and quilted. Two types of quilting are commonly done block by block. These are complex applique blocks, and blocks that are assembled by the "quilt as you go" or "fold and quilt" method. In both of these latter systems, you end up with many blocks, all layered and quilted, but having to be joined somehow to make the quilt.

Past joining systems for pre-quilted blocks have all required that the fronts be sewn together first, then the battings be joined by hand, then the backs are hand sewn together. This is a lot of hand sewing. My system will permit the joining of these blocks entirely by machine. It does pre-suppose the acceptability of a narrow sashing, which is usually quite acceptable for applique blocks, or sampler block quilts, but may not be for large integrated patterns.

This system can be tricky to follow, and the sample I am using for the pictures is not a quilt, but a simple two-block table runner. Plan on really studying the pictures and text carefully, and not proceeding until you are certain you understand what to do. Making some sample blocks and doing a test run is very, very strongly recommended.

NOTE: Since doing Sunbonnet Sue and the runner used as an example below, I did the Treadle On Block of the Month project. That was another example of the use of pre-quilted blocks, and concluded with another complete photo "how to" display of this technique. I would recommend that you study both sets of instructions thoroughly. A second input never hurts. The joining instructions for the BOTM project are at: BOTM-Joining

Here we go...

This joining system will produce a quilt in which the blocks are separated by a 1" sashing... Here is an example... the Treadle On "Sunbonnet Sue Treadles On" quilt...

Note the dark lines separating the blocks... these are the "joining sashes".

I just hate it when teachers don't give you nice, absolute rules. However, here I am about to fall into that same trap. As I do this, I use a 1" sash on the front. In order for the system to work, as I do it, the blocks must be made with consideration given to the need for 1/2" on each edge that will disappear under the dividing sash. In applique blocks, such as those in the quilt above, this is generally not a problem, as there is generally is no regular pattern, or the applique is in the middle anyway. On sampler blocks, this can be a problem. Most quilting patterns call for 1/4" seams. This includes the outside edges of the blocks. On such blocks, if this system is used, it can make the pattern uneven, unless, knowing this in advance, you make outside edge pieces in such a way as to allow for it. Some patterns allow this to be done easily... for instance, in a Log Cabin, it would be easy to make the outside logs 1/4" thicker than the inside logs. Other patterns could be difficult. You will have to do some planning and figuring for yourself...

The reason you have to use the 1/2" seams is that you are going to be joining the blocks with edge stitching, both front and back. The sashing on the back will be narrower (3/4" as opposed to the 1" on the front.). With 1/2" sashes on the front, which would be required if you wanted to honor the standard with 1/4" seams, you would end up running seams on the back that would be only 3/16" to 1/8" from the edges of the fabric on the blocks. That's closer to the edge than I am comfortable with. I'm chicken... I wanted the extra strength that results from the seams being further in. Also, I felt that 1/2" sashings were just too narrow in appearance. Others might differ. If I had a quilt where it was really going to make a difference in the appearance of the block patterns, I might be willing to try the narrow sashing... I'm 95% confidant it would work...

In the sample project pictured here, I used some left over blocks that had not been made with the intent of using this system of joining. The result is that in the finished product, the outside rows of squares will end up being slightly smaller than the norm for the pattern... watch for it so you understand what is happening...

Now another comment on how to do it differently than I am showing. In this case, the quilting pattern goes out to the edges, and so stabilizes the whole block. On applique quilts, the whole pattern is often in the middle, and you may have a real loose edge. On applique blocks (see the pictures of the Sunbonnet Sue quilt in the upcoming section on borders and edges) I like to baste the edge. I do this by setting the machine to make its largest stitch, very loosely, and stitching the edge 1/8" to 3/16" in. This will stabilize the edge until the joining process is finished. (incidentally, when doing large applique projects, like Sunbonnet Sue, I work with the concept of a 12 1/2" block size. I cut my pieces at 14" and do my applique. Only after the applique is completed to I trim to the 12 1/2" finished size. This way, I start the joining process with perfect squares.)

The next step is to make the sashing. On a full size quilt, you are going to need LOTS of this stuff, so get used to the process of making it. (You are going to end up with thoroughly steamed finger tips!) Cut 2" strips of the sashing material. If possible, cut them from the fabric lengthwise, so you can cut a piece long enough that you don't need to make joining seams in them. However, if you do need to join strips to get the necessary length, it's not the end of the world.

To turn a cut strip into finished sashing, fold it in half, good side out, and iron it flat. Next, open it up, fold each side into the middle and iron that flat...

You are going to need sashing strips for both the front and the back. They are NOT THE SAME! The front sashes, made exactly as described above, are made from strips cut 2" wide. The back sashes are made from strips cut 1 1/2" wide. Otherwise, the process of making the back sashes is the same... fold in half, iron, then fold the sides in halves and iron, and you have the sashing.

If you have had experience in applying bias binding to edges, the next steps will make more sense to you, but if not, don't despair, just follow carefully, and be prepared to do test runs until you understand what's happening.

Lay out your quilt. Your first step will be to join blocks into rows. You can work vertically or horizontally. In our example, I chose to work horizontally. In full size quilts, I usually work vertically. For your first step, you are going to need pieces of sashing perhaps 1" to 1 1/2" wider than your blocks. Figure out how many sashing pieces you will need to join the blocks into a row. DO NOT INCLUDE THE OUTSIDE EDGES, I.E. THE TOP AND BOTTOM OR SIDES! Cut that many pieces.

I leave it to you to decide what direction you want to work in, i.e. which block edges will get the short sashings and be joined to make your rows. Pick up a block and lay an opened sashing piece on it, good sides together. Align and pin the edge as shown and stitch the seam.

Now lay the next block beside the one you just did, and perform the following steps:

1. fold the sashing over, so that it covers the joining of both pieces.

3. Now lift the left hand, finished piece up and fold it over the new piece, good sides together. This will leave the unsewn edge of the sashing exposed on the new block. Align and pin as you did above. I did not get a good picture of this on the project above, so I took some new ones, using a tiny "example piece", consisting of a piece of sashing and two pieces of bat... hopefully it will help keep things clear:

Carefully note the back view of the two seams you have sewn... these are, from the front view, "blind" seams... they don't show on the front, but they do on the back. This is important, as these seams will be your guides for sewing the back sashing on.

Your next step is going to be to lay the carefully folded and ironed back sash onto the joint, between the two visible seams made by the front sash. It should fit very nicely between the two seams. You are going to stitch it in place very carefully, making your seams close to its two edges, probably about 1/16" in, but in any event, close. You probably will not need to pin it. Stitch both sides as shown

The seams you made in attaching the back sashing will be visible on the front, creating a kind of decorative railroad track effect...

This has covered, hopefully clearly, the process of joining pre-quilted blocks. Obviously, if you have a full size quilt, rather than a two-block project like the example, you would proceed to join the rest of the blocks to complete Row 1 of the quilt, then Row 2, etc.

The process of joining the rows is simply a repeat of the process of joining the blocks, except that you are going to use much longer sashing strips. There is one factor in joining the rows that is critical... be very careful in your pinning. Measure your rows and establish a finished row length. Cut your sashing strips a bit longer than that, but mark the length on them. Pin each end at the mark, then pin in the middle, then in the middle of the two resulting sections, etc. Ease the fabric as you go so that you get a flat seam. You don't want to just start at one end of a long piece and pin along all the way to the end. It will stretch on you. As you pin, make certain that the short sashes you made to join the blocks into rows line up. You don't want to find yourself sighting across the quilt when it's done and discovering that what was supposed to look like a one set of straight, continuous sashings crossing another set of straight continuos sashings has ended up looking like a flight of stairs in one direction!

As noted above, in joining the blocks with sashing, up to this point, do not worry about the outside edges.... you will be either adding borders or binding, or both. This is covered in the next section.

Here is a pair of pictures of "Sunbonnet Sue Treadles On", showing to total structure of a large project:

Proceed to "Making and Attaching Borders and Edge Binding"