I recently had the need to make some small padded bags. After several false tries, I worked out a simple technique that met my needs. These bags were to hold my smoking pipes in a kit I take with me when I go to the club to smoke. My original idea was for drawstring bags, and I set the technique up to do that, but discovered that in this small size, having a heavy top roll with no drawstring was quite adequate. If you squeeze the sides, the top opens, almost as if there were a spring in the sides. Anyway, here is the step by step instruction page. I will comment specifically when and where problems were developed and also on possible variations for other purposes.
Dick
Measurements:
Measurement and planning aren't my long suit, so I just kind of had at it. My first bag ended up a bit short. The second was long enough, and easier to sew, but I had lost the nice "spring open" top effect mentioned above. Also, I used a white inside liner and it showed on the edges. I tried a third, cutting larger and binding the edge. It worked out pretty well, but the binding was a pain. I decided on #4 I would try a brown inside liner and a final measurement that should produce exactly what I wanted. This worked.
The final measurement I wanted was a bag 7.5" x 4.25", which works out perfectly for most average size and length pipes. To arrive at this finished size, I cut my basic pieces 5" wide x 18" long. As noted above, this size, with a double rolled top edge, did not need a drawstring, and would in fact have been too stiff to really use one. If you want a larger bag, make the top roll deeper to allow more flexibility, or eliminate the batting in the top roll by cutting the bat piece short on both ends. If you follow the instructions below and analyze them, you should be able to arrive at most any dimension you need for your own bag.
Assembly:
Cut three basic pieces: one from your outside fabric, one from the liner and one from the padding. Most any quilt bat scrap should be fine. I used cotton bat. As noted above, for this project I cut 5" x 18".
One of the "tricks" to this is that you are going to sew it 'inside out" and you need to arrange your fabric for sewing in such a way that when you turn it back "rightside out" out, you end up with the outside fabric on the outside, print side out, and the liner on the inside. It's easy to goof up and find yourself with the print's back on the outside and the bat on the inside!
Above you see the three pieces that will make up the bag. I chose a nice smoking related fabric for the outside, and a complementary brown solid for the inside. The bat is a piece of Warm & Natural cotton bat. |
In this picture, the pieces have been laid together ready to begin sewing. The bat is on the bottom, then the liner, and finally the outside piece, with the print side DOWN. Note: If you are also using a print for the liner, then you will want the two print sides together, just as when you assemble a quilt block.
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These next four pictures show the basic assembly of what I call "the tube". Sew each edge of the set together, as shown here. I back tacked the start and finish of each seam, but with the rolled top, it probably isn't necessary. I'm just deeply into overkill... |
This picture shows beginning to turn the tube inside out. Put your fingers between the outside fabric and the liner, work down to the end and pull the whole thing through.
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The whole tube has now been pulled through, making it "right side out".
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Here the edges have been carefully finger pressed flat and fully to the outside. |
The next step is to produce the rolled top edges. This takes several operations...
Note that in the sewing of the side seams, the ends have become uneven. I carefully trimmed them square. See next photo.
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The process of rolling three layers to produce the top edge will inevitably cause the layers to shift. Here I have sewn a seam across an end to stabilize them. Note that Idid not start or end at the edges... just across the open center section. Obviously, yoou will want to do this at both ends.
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Here I have finger rolled the top over once, about 1/4". The seam you see between my fingers is the stabilizing seam shown in the last picture. I have not yet done the final seam on the top edge.
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Okay... now I have rolled the top edge over again, making the double roll... still no seam. |
This seam is your toughest challenge. The edges are nine layers thick, and three of those layers are bat! Very few home machines are going to be happy starting a seam of this thickness. You have to outsmart them. Start the seam 1/4 of the way in. Go forward three or four stitches, then reverse and sew out to the back edge. You will have to use hand pressure to pull the work forward, but at least for me, it worked. Once you come to the edge, end reverse and start forward again. With the fabric compressed and sewn, I had no problem going forward from the edge now. Sew to the opposite edge. Going forward and pulling a little from behind, I was able to sew through all of the thicknesses.
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Here is a finished top edge. Note that the seam is pretty close to the bottom of the roll. This roll is pretty stiff, producing the "spring open" effect I mentined. There is a "hole" through the top, so you could use a bodkin and feed a pair of draw strings through, but at this size, and with this thickness of top edge, they would not work well. In a larger size, this would be OK. You could also, if you know a drawstring is needed, cut your pieces to allow for a deeper, less dense top roll, or even cut the outside and liner pieces extra long, so that the top roll that held the drawstring was not having to contend with the bat. |
A Finished Bag:
The final step is to fold the whole piece over, aligning the tops, and top stitch over the edge seams. Start at the bottom, backstitching, and your sewing machine should handle the thickness. It will stop when it hits those top rolls, which is alright. Just go as far as you can and backtack at that spot.
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Here is the top opening. Note that I am squeezing it with my fingers. When I let go, it closes. I considered inserting a piece of plastic in the openings of the rolled edges, in place of drawstrings. That would produce an even more pronounced snap open effect.
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Okay... now you are prepared to make nice little bags, either snap open or drawstring, for marbles, jewelry, pipes, or whatever. Below are some views of mine in use...
Here are the final four bags I made for use in my "kit", shown behind. |
Here is the kit, ready to go... four pipes held in place with velcro straps, a pack of pipe cleaners, a tin of English tobacco, a leather tobacco pouch (which will hold another pipe if wanted), and a lighter.
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My "collection", at this time... 7 pipes. I have a couple more coming, and am keeping my eye out for old pipes at sales and auctions. My next project is to build a 24 pipe rack. If anyone has a grandpa, father, husband or other who once smoked a pipe but no longer does and would like to see their old favorites go to a loving home... I'm here... :^)
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My Zippo/Singer lighter... of which I am very proud. The emblem celebrates Singer's 100th year, like the Centennial emblems on the machines. These lighters were given to managers and lead sales people in 1951. |
That''s it. If you have questions, you can contact me via the email link on the main page of this site.
Dick Wightman
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